Historical Kelly Basin

The West Coast is where my blogging began over six years ago. Check out my first blog here. 

We ventured back to Queenstown for the long weekend and decided to go on a bush walk and explore the historical town of East Pillinger. With lush rainforests, rugged mountains and stories from Tasmania’s past hidden amongst the West Coast wilderness, I was excited to begin the Kelly Basin Track, one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks. 

The drive down to the start of the walk set the scene for what was to come. Parks and Wildlife have kept this road well maintained. The road was framed by fern covered cut out banks allowing just enough room to fit the car through. 

We arrived at the start of the walk eager to see what this track had to offer. Looking at the information board, I was intrigued by the combination of history and wilderness. There is something fascinating about walking through an environment that has reclaimed a place once bustling with life.

The track began beneath a canopy of towering trees and tree ferns. The West Coast had worked its magic once again, with every shade of green imaginable surrounding us. Moss clung to fallen logs, fungi decorated the forest floor and the sounds of birds echoed through the rainforest.

One of the highlights of the walk was spotting some fungi I had never seen before. Bright splashes of colour stood out amongst the greens and browns of the forest, and a couple in particular caught my attention. One had a spiky-looking top with a soft, wispy underside that looked like cotton balls. It was unlike anything I had come across before. The other one I called ‘the oyster shell of the forest!’ 

As we made our way along the old railway route, it was easy to imagine the trains that once travelled this very path carrying supplies and passengers to the remote settlement at Kelly Basin. While nature has reclaimed much of the area, reminders of its rich history can still be found along the track. 

The last kilometre of the track to East Pillinger was quite different from the earlier sections. Thick tree roots criss-crossed the path, creating a natural obstacle course beneath our feet. Each step required concentration as we carefully picked our way along, dodging slippery roots and muddy patches. It certainly slowed our pace, but it also added to the feeling that we were venturing deeper into a place that nature had reclaimed as its own.

Before long, we arrived at East Pillinger. It was hard to imagine that this now peaceful corner of the West Coast was once home to a thriving community of around 1,000 people. Today, only a handful of remnants remain, quietly hidden amongst the rainforest, offering a glimpse into the area’s fascinating past.

The first part of the historical site we explored was the old brick kilns. Scattered amongst the rainforest floor were bricks that had been made more than one hundred years ago, many still remarkably intact. Information boards explained that the kilns once produced thousands of bricks for the nearby smelters and buildings in the company town of Crotty. Standing amongst the moss-covered remnants, it was fascinating to imagine the hustle and bustle that once filled this now peaceful corner of the West Coast.

After viewing the remnants of the kilns we went to check out the boilers. The boilers were bigger, rougher, and more of a contrast of man made versus natural. It was strange to think about how much work went into keeping them running, constantly feeding the fire and watching the water levels. These boilers were responsible for providing the power for the sawmill and brick making plant. Now they just sit there, slowly being taken back by the forest, like the rest of East Pillinger.

The next place to explore was right next to Macquarie Harbour where the township was built. You could see the old pier which would have once been used to load and unload supplies, connecting this remote community to the outside world. Now, it sits quietly at the water’s edge, with only the sound of the harbour and the wind through the trees. 

The final piece of the puzzle was exploring the remnants of a brick house. Scattered amongst the ruins were everyday household items that had been left behind more than one hundred years ago, including glass bottles, ceramic plates and a pot. Seeing these objects provided a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the people who once called East Pillinger home.

We really enjoyed getting a glimpse into the life that was. East Pillinger was a thriving little township for a good twenty years. 

We made our trek back along the muddy path we took to get in. The walk took us around four hours with many stops to take photographs. The trail is a 10.8km flat track but lots of mud and slippery tree roots.